Table of Contents
Introduction
The southern Mexican state of Oaxaca is a food lover’s paradise, filled with unique and unforgettable flavors. Oaxaca’s cuisine stands out for its diversity and complexity, influenced by the state’s indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec cultures. From the famed seven moles of Oaxaca to street snacks like grilled chapulines (grasshoppers), Oaxacan food offers an explosion of tastes found nowhere else in Mexico. Visiting Oaxaca is the best way to fully experience authentic Oaxacan cuisine. Let’s explore the iconic flavors, dishes, markets and traditions that make this food so special.
The Flavors of Oaxaca
The heart and soul of Oaxacan cuisine lies in its incredible moles. Mole sauce gets its name from the Aztec word for “concoction” – and Oaxaca takes its moles very seriously. There are seven major types of Oaxacan mole, each with a unique blend of ingredients. Mole negro features over 30 ingredients, including chili peppers, chocolate, nuts, herbs and spices. Coloradito mole gets its reddish color from ancho chilis and tomatoes. Mole amarillo has a vibrant yellow color from avo or yellow mole. Other iconic moles are verde, chichilo, colorado and manchamanteles. Every Oaxacan cook has their own mole recipe and technique, passed down through generations.
Beyond mole, Oaxaca has an array of flavorful salsas and sauces. Salsa macha – a searingly spicy sauce made with dried chilies, peanuts and spices – adds heat to tacos and meats. Fragrant green salsa de jalapeño often contains creamy avocado. Chileajo sauce infuses chili peppers with garlic. Oaxaca takes pride in its famous Oaxacan cheese, known as quesillo, an irresistible white, stringy cheese that melts in your mouth.
No discussion of Oaxacan flavors is complete without chapulines. These small grasshoppers are a popular regional ingredient, adding a savory, nutty crunch to tacos, eggs and guacamole. Don’t knock them until you’ve tried them! Chapulines encapsulate the adventurous spirit of Oaxacan cuisine.
Iconic Dishes and Street Foods
From street stalls to high-end restaurants, Oaxaca excels at iconic comfort foods and snacks. The quintessential Oaxacan street food is the tlayuda – a giant crispy tortilla smeared with beans, cheese, salsa and any topping you desire. m. Tlayudas sizzle on griddles at stands throughout Oaxaca City.
Oaxaca’s famous tamales also satisfy. Wrapped in banana leaves, tamales here are filled with mole, beans, chili peppers, greens or cheese. You can even find chapulines in tamales for an extra Oaxacan touch! Street vendors keep tamales warm in steaming pots or grills – perfect for a quick, flavorful bite.
Speaking of chapulines, these crispy grasshoppers deserve their own street food shoutout. Vendors sell bags of roasted, seasoned chapulines as the ultimate Oaxacan snack – crunchy, nutty, irresistible. Mix chopped chapulines into guacamole or tacos for extra protein and crunch.
No Oaxacan market is complete without sizzling elote (grilled corn) and esquites (corn salad). Elote vendors grill corn ears over coals, then coat them in crema, lime, chili powder and salty cheese. For esquites, kernels are shaved off the cob to make a sweet, smoky salad topped with the same fixings. Irresistible!
Finally, Oaxaca takes pride in its artisanal chocolate tradition. The cacao-rich region produces some of Mexico’s finest chocolate. Don’t miss Oaxacan hot chocolate, chocolate moles or handmade chocolate treats from local shops.
The Markets of Oaxaca
To truly immerse yourself in Oaxacan cuisine, you must explore the region’s lively markets. The enormous Mercado Benito Juárez in central Oaxaca City overflows with color, chaos and of course, chapulines! Wander past piles of dried chilies in every hue, fragrant herbs, produce stands, cheese vendors, food stalls, handicrafts and more. It’s a feast for the senses – don’t be afraid to sample as you stroll!
Every Friday, the village of Etla hosts a vibrant regional market with the valley’s freshest produce. Around the market, food stalls serve up scrumptious antojitos (little cravings) like memelitas (thick corn tortillas with toppings), empanadas, tamales, fresh juices and more. Grab a bite, chat with a smiling cook (in Spanish) and immerse yourself in village life.
Wherever you go in Oaxaca, smaller neighborhood markets and lone food stands offer opportunities to try regional specialties. Be adventurous! You never know when you’ll stumble across a little-known Oaxacan delicacy.
The Traditions Behind the Food
Oaxaca’s legendary cuisine is deeply rooted in family, festivals, history and culture. Generations of women have passed down mole recipes and tortilla-making techniques. Food preparation follows seasonal cycles using native ingredients. Each occasion brings special foods and meaning.
Celebrations like weddings, birthdays and baptisms are marked by shared meals of Oaxacan favorites. Festivals like Dia de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) honor deceased loved ones with food of offerings – perhaps mole, tamales or pan de yema (egg yolk bread). On Christmas and other religious holidays, Oaxacans enjoy seasonal dishes. But at the heart of Oaxaca’s food culture are the everyday family meals that bring people together over handicrafted ceramics filled with timeless recipes. Eating in Oaxaca satisfies more than just taste buds.
Where to Eat Authentic Oaxacan Cuisine
One of the world’s top foodie destinations, Oaxaca offers endless opportunities to try authentic cuisine, from humble market stalls to acclaimed restaurants. In Oaxaca City, favorites like Los Danzantes, Casa Oaxaca and Origen fuse traditional recipes with modern flair, alongside upscale Mexican mainstays like Pitiona and Quintonil. For a memorable mole tasting menu, book a table at León Leon’s Nesstionally Mole pop-up series.
Nothing beats family-run spots for a true homestyle Oaxacan meal. In Oaxaca Valley, head to Tlamanalli in Teotitlán del Valle for their Zapotec chef’s locally-sourced mole negro and coloradito. Nearby in Zaachila, La Teca serves their grandmother’s treasured recipes. In the city, Casa de la Abuela (“Grandmother’s House”) offers spins on Oaxacan classics in a cozy setting.
Pair your meals with cooking classes and food tours for a fully immersive experience. Seasoned teachers like Pilar Cabrera of La Casa de los Sabores share mole-making workshops and market tours. Culinary guides like Oaxaca Culinary Tours lead walkabouts through the Mercado Juárez.
Bringing Oaxaca Home with You
Once you’ve fallen for the seductive flavors of Oaxaca, you’ll want to bring its cuisine home. Stock up on Oaxacan cookbooks like Diana Kennedy’s seminal works or Chef Josefina Velázquez de León’s classic compilations. Pick up local food products like chilies, chocolate, herbs and spices. Hunt for handmade pottery and kitchen tools like molcajete mortars and comals (clay griddles).
Arm yourself with tasty Oaxacan recipes to make anytime. Mole Coloradito, tlayudas, memelas and chocolate atole will transport your kitchen. Plant herbs like epazote and hoja santa in your garden. And of course, don’t forget the chapulines!
But perhaps the best way to savor Oaxaca’s gifts is through memories – of bustling markets fragrant with spices, smiling women making tortillas by hand, and that life-changing first bite of rich, complex mole negro. Oaxaca’s powerful flavors leave an indelible mark, forever seasoning your culinary dreams.
Conclusion
Oaxaca remains an essential destination for savoring Mexico’s culinary heritage. Visiting the markets, restaurants, family eateries and street stalls lets you taste Oaxacan cuisine in its authentic, unforgettable forms. Beyond the food itself, Oaxaca’s dishes tell stories of history, culture and generosity that have enriched lives for generations. An old Oaxacan proverb sums it up: “Para todo mal, mezcal. Para todo bien, también” – For everything bad, mezcal. For everything good, too. Here’s to the joys of Oaxacan food and drink, always worthy of celebration!
Frequently Asked Questions
What are some key ingredients in Oaxacan cooking?
Some iconic Oaxacan ingredients include chilies (like pasillas and árbols), chocolate, herbs like epazote and hoja santa, chapulines (grasshoppers), quesillo cheese, and native produce like corn and squash.
What is the food scene like in Oaxaca City?
Oaxaca City has a vibrant food scene, from local markets to upscale Mexican restaurants. Top picks include Origen, Casa Oaxaca, Los Danzantes, Itanoní Tortilleria, the Mercado 20 de Noviembre, and street food stalls.
What are some classic Oaxacan street foods?
Must-try Oaxacan street foods include tlayudas (giant tortillas), tamales steamed in banana leaves, elotes (grilled corn on the cob), esquites (corn salad), nieves (sorbet), and of course, chapulines (grasshoppers).
What is the best way to experience Oaxacan markets?
Wander through major markets like Mercado Benito Juárez in Oaxaca City and the Friday market in Etla. Absorb the sights, smells and flavors. Chat with vendors and try samples – it’s encouraged!
Where can I learn to cook Oaxacan food at home?
Many Oaxacan restaurants, like Casa Oaxaca, offer cooking classes while you’re visiting. Back home, cookbooks by Diana Kennedy are invaluable resources for mole recipes and more.