Table of Contents
Introduction
The small country of Georgia at the crossroads of Europe and Asia holds a wealth of history and culture. One of its most fascinating aspects is its ancient cave cities – entire underground settlements carved into the soft rock of mountainsides and cliff faces. These cave cities thrived from prehistoric times through the Middle Ages, leaving behind a legacy of rock-cut architecture, artefacts and unique fresco paintings. Three of the most spectacular examples are Uplistsikhe, Vardzia and Davit Gareja. Join us as we explore these subterranean wonders and discover Georgia’s ancient cave city heritage.
Ancient Cave City of Uplistsikhe
Location and history – Uplistsikhe, whose name translates as ‘Fortress of God’, is carved into a rocky plateau overlooking the Mtkvari River around 10 kilometres east of Georgia’s modern capital, Tbilisi. First settled in the Bronze Age around 1000 BC, it grew to be a major centre of pagan worship and trade along the Silk Road before being converted to Christianity in the 4th century AD. Over its 2,500 year history, the cave city accommodated up to 20,000 inhabitants at its peak.
Layout and architecture – Uplistsikhe contains a vast complex of halls, chambers, tunnels and amphitheatres spread over some 8 hectares. The focal point is a grand central avenue lined with carved facades leading to temples, residences of kings and nobles, even an early pharmacy and theatre. A giant carved snake guards the entrance to the 7th century Three Hailed Church.
Key sites and artefacts – Uplistsikhe’s most significant sites include the pagan temples of the sun goddess and fertility goddess, the Church of St. George, a royal hall with enormous 9th century stone pillars, and an intricate underground irrigation system to supply water. Numerous relics have also been unearthed like pottery, weapons, tools and jewellery – many now displayed in Georgia’s National Museum.
Ancient Cave City of Vardzia
Location and history – The incredible cave city of Vardzia lies in Georgia’s southern province of Samtskhe-Javakheti, carved into the Erusheti Mountain on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. It was constructed in the 12th century during the reign of Queen Tamar and served as a fortress, monastery and place of refuge. Under threat from Mongol invaders in the 13th century, King George III and later King George IV expanded it into a safe haven for Georgian culture.
Layout and architecture – Vardzia once contained over 3,000 caves on 13 tiers, connected by tunnels and secret passageways. The Church of the Dormition with its grand, arched facade leads to a main street through rooms, chapels, throne rooms, pantries and wine cellars. The complex also featured irrigation systems and wine presses. Today only 550 decorated caves remain intact.
Frescoes and cave churches – What makes Vardzia extraordinary are the relics of Byzantine art adorning its walls. Intricate frescoes depict religious figures and saints, with an Annunciation scene in the Church of the Dormition considered a masterpiece. Other beautifully decorated cave churches include Saint George’s, Saint Stephen’s and the Church of the Ascension.
Ancient Cave City of Davit Gareja
Location and history – Davit Gareja represents not one but a sprawling complex of rock-hewn monasteries carved into the semi-desert slopes of Mount Gareja, around 70 kilometres southeast of Tbilisi. Founded in the 6th century by the revered Assyrian monk St. David, they grew into a renowned spiritual centre over the centuries. The largest monastery is Lavra, expanded by David’s followers to include hundreds of cells, chapels, refectories and wine cellars.
Monasteries and churches – Major monasteries at Davit Gareja include Udabno, Bertubani and Chichkhituri, with ancient defensive architecture, ornate rock-cut facades and secluded cliff cells. Significant churches like Lavra’s main cathedral feature medieval frescoes and hold religious treasures. The upside-down hanging church of Udabno is a striking example of ingenious cave construction.
Frescoes and artefacts – Davit Gareja has the largest collection of old Georgian frescoes after Vardzia, including rare 9th-11th century examples at Lavra’s Three-Altar Church. Manuscripts, crosses, vestments and other religious artefacts from centuries past fill its monasteries, now institutions of the Georgian Orthodox Church.
Exploring the Cave Cities
Getting there and around – The cave cities are all accessible by road or by hiking trails, doable in a day from Tbilisi. Tour companies offer transfers or guided tours by jeep, especially to remote Davit Gareja. Alternatively, you can hike between Uplistsikhe and Mtskheta or take public minibuses to Vardzia from major towns.
Guided tours – To fully grasp the history and features of these unique sites, booking a guided tour is highly recommended. Local expert guides are available at all locations to explain the origins, architecture and artistic highlights while leading you safely through the labyrinth of tunnels and passages.
Places to stay nearby – There are guesthouses, hotels and campgrounds near each cave complex for overnight stays. Accommodation options range from budget homestays in local villages to comfortable mid-range lodges and spa resorts, particularly around Uplistsikhe and Vardzia.
Significance of the Cave Cities
As religious centres – The cave cities held deep spiritual significance, beginning as pagan cult worship sites before the advent of Christianity when basilicas and monasteries were carved from the rock. They became Georgian Orthodoxy’s holiest sites with some of its most sacred churches, like Vardzia’s Church of the Dormition.
As settlements and fortresses – At their peak, the cave complexes were self-contained settlements housing entire communities in networks of dwellings, with irrigation systems to water crops and livestock. Their elevated, easily defensible positions allowed them to be fortified as refuges against foreign invaders during times of conflict.
For Georgian culture and identity – The cave cities represent pinnacles of Georgian architecture and artistry. Their churches, frescoes and religious artefacts helped cement Christianity within Georgian culture and identity. They also reflect Georgia’s location on the crossroads of Europe and Asia, absorbing influences from Greek, Byzantine, Persian and Arab cultures.
Threats and Preservation
Damage over time – The soft volcanic rock from which the caves were carved has deteriorated over centuries of weathering, causing collapses. Earthquakes and landslides have destroyed portions of the complexes while churches were vandalised under foreign occupations.
Modern development pressures – Georgia’s cave cities face threats from new construction, roadworks and tourism. Nearby quarrying at Uplistsikhe and a hydropower project at Davit Gareja risk destabilising and damaging the sites. Managing large visitor numbers is also an ongoing challenge.
Conservation efforts – Georgia’s National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation works actively to safeguard the cave cities by mapping, surveying and repairing at-risk structures. International bodies like UNESCO and NGOs also support conservation through funding, resources and training. Sustainable tourism initiatives protect access while minimising further impacts.
Conclusion
Georgia’s ancient cave cities offer a fascinating window into the origins of early human settlements, medieval architecture and the emergence of Christian culture in the Caucasus region. Their subterranean structures have an otherworldly, mystical quality unique to Georgia. But beyond their visual impact, they hold invaluable cultural importance for Georgian identity. By understanding the past, locals strive to preserve their cave city heritage while welcoming visitors to experience their magic. The opportunity to explore these lost worlds is sure to inspire.
FAQs
FAQ 1: How old are Georgia’s ancient cave cities?
The earliest cave structures date back over 3,000 years to the late Bronze Age around 1000 BC. However, most date from the 6th century AD onwards when Christianity gained prominence in Georgia.
FAQ 2: How were the cave cities carved?
They were carved using simple iron and bronze tools to cut into the soft volcanic rock, often following natural cracks and fissures. Wooden scaffolds allowed builders to carve facades and decorative features higher up.
FAQ 3: What other uses did they have besides religious ones?
The cave networks housed not just churches but dwellings, stables, wine presses and even theatres. They functioned as self-contained settlements as well as spiritual centres.
FAQ 4: Why did King George III expand Vardzia?
To create a refuge to preserve Georgian culture as the Mongols invaded lands to the north. Its remoteness and sheer size allowed thousands to shelter safely within while under siege.
FAQ 5: Are the cave cities at risk today?
While deteriorating over time, conservation efforts aim to stabilise and preserve them. However nearby development like quarrying, flooding from dams and mass tourism remain threats.