Table of Contents
Introduction
Mauritania, located in West Africa, is a vast country covered mostly by the inhospitable Sahara Desert. But beneath the seemingly endless seas of sand lie hidden gems waiting to be discovered. Join me as I take you on an adventure into the sands of Mauritania, a journey full of wonder, excitement, and life-changing experiences.
Overview of Mauritania
Mauritania is the 11th largest country in Africa, over twice the size of France. Over 80% of its landscape comprises the harsh Sahara desert, with the remainder semi-arid savannah. Its population of 4 million people is mostly concentrated along the southern Senegal River valley. Mauritania’s main industries are mining and fishing.
Historically, Mauritania was the cradle of the ancient Ghana Empire and used to be a busy trading hub across the Sahara before the arrival of Europeans along the West African coast. It only became an independent country in 1960 after decades of French colonial rule. Arabic and French are widely spoken in cities, while local tribal languages prevail in the countryside. The population is predominantly Muslim.
Preparing for the Journey
To survive and travel safely across the extreme environment of the Mauritanian Sahara required careful preparation. I arranged local guides and camel handlers through a trusted tour company and stocked up on supplies like food, water, fuel, camping gear, navigational equipment, first-aid kits, and spare parts for the 4×4 vehicles.
Acclimatizing to the desert climate took some time. The dry heat soared to over 40°C (104°F) during the day but plunged below freezing at night. Strong UV rays could easily burn exposed skin. I wore light, loose clothing that covered my whole body, plus sturdy hat and sunglasses. Staying hydrated was critical.
Entering the Sahara
Our journey commenced as we left the capital, Nouakchott, behind and headed east using a 4×4 towards the Adrar highlands. Navigation was tricky with few roads or landmarks across the ocean of sand dunes. As the last signs of scrub vegetation faded away, an otherworldly landscape emerged. Endless seas of towering golden dunes stretched as far as the eye could see. We had entered the Sahara proper!
Camel Trekking through the Dunes
Now the real adventure began as we mounted camels and trekked deep into the dunes. Our Tuareg guides steered the camel train with ease even though the shifting dunes revealed no tracks. The camel’s steady rocking gait soon became soothing. Their huge padded feet with two toes made walking on soft sand easy. They carried all our supplies and equipment effortlessly.
Riding high atop the camels gave breathtaking desert views. The winds sculpted the dunes into sensuous curves. Shadows accentuated the ripples on their surface. We explored hidden oases tucked between dunes with sparkling springs surrounded by swaying palms. Mirages shimmered in the distance as sunlight played tricks with our eyes.
Camping in the Desert
As the blazing sun began to set, we halted to make camp for the night. Thecamel handlers quickly unpacked gear and set up tents. We gathered camel dung for firewood with which to cook dinner. The Tuareg cooked up a tasty camel meat and rice dish they shared with us.
The night sky was clearer than I’ve ever seen before. The Milky Way glowed brightly amidst a sea of twinkling stars. We recognized some constellations but many were unfamiliar in this southern hemisphere. Shooting stars frequently arced overhead. The Sahara became surprisingly cold at night but we kept warm huddled around the campfire.
Experiencing Nomadic Life
Meeting the nomadic Tuareg and Berber peoples was a highlight. We experienced their ancient way of life during our camel trek. They welcome travelers warmly and generously into their spare tents.
We enjoyed sweet camel milk tea with them. The men kept their faces masked while the women had beautiful henna tattoos. They taught us a few words of their Tamasheq language. We also saw them shepherding goats, weaving cloth, foraging desert plants, and collecting water from wells. Their survival skills in this harsh landscape were impressive.
Visiting Ancient Cities
After several days traversing the dunes, we arrived at the fabled caravan city of Chinguetti. Its ancient trade buildings and mosques built of stone and mudbrick were well preserved. We saw the vast 16th century Sankore mosque with its impressive minaret. Chinguetti used to host the busy camel trade between the Sahara and West Africa. Tranquil and untouched by modernity, it felt like time had stood still here.
We also visited Ouadane, another historic town lost amid the dunes. Climbing its crumbling old minaret, which dates back to 1055 AD, rewarded us with sublime desert views. Ouadane has kept caravanserai guesthouses for traders intact too. Both towns are World Heritage Sites today for their historic value.
Driving Through the Desert
After the slow-paced camel trekking, it was time to pick up speed by switching to 4x4s. We drove along desert trails between more oasis towns. Driving through the ever-changing desert landscape was an adventure in itself. We had to avoid getting stuck in soft dunes or damaged in the rocky hamadas.
The desert also held surprises like meteorite strewn fields with chunks of iron from outer space. We also passed ruined fortresses of the French Foreign Legion. Occasional caravans of camels guided by nomads crossed our path, reminding us of the old Spice Routes. The 4×4 drive let us cover long distances and visit more oases dotting the Sahara.
Sandboarding Down The Dunes
What goes up must come down! The giant dunes we admired earlier became huge playgrounds for sandboarding. We took specially made sandboards with bindings for the feet and sped down the super soft slopes. With no trees or rocks, it made for a smooth ride. We learned to steer the boards using hips and heel.
The smaller dunes were perfect for beginners while experts tackled the steepest mega-dunes. Some dunes had concave faces that became half-pipes. Landing smoothly at the bottom after an adrenaline-filled ride left us grinning from ear to ear wanting to make the climb up to slide down again!
Watching the Sunrise and Sunset
The most spectacular Saharan light shows came at sunrise and sunset. We made sure to catch both everyday. At dawn, the first light slowly flooded the dunes in bright golden hues. Shadows shifted as the dunes came to life. At sunset, vibrant orange and purple colors danced across the dunes. The interplay of light and shadows on the ripples created a magical experience.
These were also the best times to capture photos of the splendid desert scenery. The low-angle light accentuated the shape and texture of the sand. Camel caravans threading across the dunes made for great photographic subjects. We captured the perfect sunrise camel shadow snap for our trip’s defining shot!
Stargazing at Night
At night, we simply spread out rugs on the soft open sands and lay down under the dazzling canopy of stars overhead. The Milky Way glowed brightly in the crystal clear dark skies. We could easily identify constellations we knew and spot new clusters. Shooting stars frequently blazed past.
The guides also pointed out Saharan star lore — legends and myths linked to celestial bodies important for their navigation across the seas of dunes. We spotted satellites slowly crossing the sky too. Lying under a meteor shower out in the wide open desert was an awesome experience beyond description!
Learning About the Culture
Mauritania may be mostly desert but it has a rich cultural heritage. We learned about Mauritania’s fascinating ethnic diversity of Berber, Arab, and black African peoples. The desert cities had bustling souks full of traditional handicrafts showcasing their artistry with leather, metals, and wood. We picked some exotic musical instruments as souvenirs.
Mauritanian cuisine was another discovery using camel, goat and fish unique to the region. Millet and rice made tasty staples. Dates and camel milk are widely consumed. The delicious sweet pastries and desert teas always hit the spot after a long day exploring. The music also mirrored African, Berber and Arabic influences in rhythms and instruments.
Challenges of Desert Travel
Traveling across the remote Sahara had its fair share of challenges we had to plan for and overcome along the way. Keeping enough drinking water stocked up was essential in the scorching heat. Keeping vehicles running required constant maintenance and repairs. Navigation demanded care using compass, GPS along with the guides’ expertise reading the desert.
Sandstorms sometimes blew up reducing visibility and halting progress. We covered up well but the blasting sand still found every crack! Safety issues like sand dune collapses, avoiding venomous desert creatures, and flash flooding meant we had to be vigilant at all times. But our experienced guides ensured these challenges became learning experiences along the journey.
Reflecting on the Journey
As the adventure wound down, we had quiet moments to reflect upon the journey. The Sahara’s raw beauty and riches revealed themselves to those bold enough to venture across its harsh yet magical landscape. Our mettle was tested, as we pushed beyond our comfort zones. The wisdom and survival skills of the desert people we met humbled us.
Above all, the solitude of the endless seas of dunes emphasized how small we were in the natural scheme of things. Disconnecting from modern life’s rush sharpened our perspective and priorities. We forged new friendships and learned so much more about this part of the world. Mauritania’s sands had transformed us forever.
Conclusion
The ancient land of Mauritania in the mighty Sahara offered the trip of a lifetime which exceeded expectations. Its timeless desert scenery, adventures, and cultural encounters will forever inspire us. We highly recommend making an effort to discover the hidden beauty of Mauritania’s sands yourself. But go prepared, alert and open to what the desert reveals to you along the way. This magical land will reward you with experiences found nowhere else on Earth.
FAQs
Q: What is the best time to visit Mauritania?
A: The cooler months between November to February are ideal to avoid the extreme desert heat.
Q: What clothing and gear do I need?
A: Light, loose and fully covering clothes, hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, sturdy footwear, camping supplies, 4×4 spare parts/tools.
Q: What health precautions should I take?
A: Get relevant vaccinations, take prescription medicines for pre-existing conditions, bring first-aid kits.
Q: How much does a camel trekking tour cost?
A: Expect to pay around $200-300 per person per day for guided tours including food/lodging.
Q: Are there direct flights to Mauritania?
A: There are no direct flights. You need to connect via North Africa or Europe to reach Nouakchott.