Tunisia’s capital city of Tunis is home to one of the largest and most well-preserved old medinas in North Africa. This labyrinth of narrow alleys transports visitors back in time, offering an immersive experience into Tunisian history, architecture, culture and cuisine. Join me on a journey through this fascinating medina and the highlights of my visit.
Table of Contents
Entering the Medina through Bab el Bhar
My journey begins by entering the medina through the northern gate of Bab el Bhar. This imposing triumphal arch built in the 17th century provides a stately passageway into the old city. As I step through the arch, I’m immediately engulfed by the sights, sounds and smells of the lively medina. The call to prayer rings out from nearby mosques as shopkeepers begin to open up their stalls, filling the air with the aromas of fresh pastries and coffee. Navigating the winding cobblestone passages, I already start to get a sense of this medina’s charm and mystery.
Exploring the Souks
Souk des Chechias (Fez makers market)
My first stop is the Souk des Chechias, where artisans craft the iconic red felt hats called “chechia” worn by Tunisian men. In tiny workshops, I watch the feats of handiwork as the hat makers shape and stamp the wool into the traditional conical form. The shops are filled with towers of brilliant red hats of all sizes, a testament to the continuing popularity of this headwear. Trying on a chechia myself, I’m immediately transported into local life.
Souk Ettrouk (Clothes market)
In the Souk Ettrouk, the medina’s main clothing market, rows of shops display the latest in Tunisian fashion. Lacy robes called “jebba” in vibrant colors, embroidered dresses and patterned scarves are arranged to entice shoppers. The sound of sewing machines buzzes in the background as tailors diligently make alterations and sew custom designs. Bargaining is expected here. I try my hand at negotiating for beautiful wardrobe additions to remember this place.
Souk El Berka (Perfume market)
Stepping through the stone archway into Souk El Berka, I’m enveloped by the strong scents of exotic perfumes. Glass bottles and vials filled with fragrant oils from jasmine, geranium, orange blossom and other mesmerizing scents are neatly lined up, dazzling the eyes as well as the nose. Following tradition, the perfumes are made from natural essences, providing a genuine sensual experience. I dab some perfume oil samples on my skin, letting the heady fragrances transport me temporarily to a perfumed paradise.
Souk El Attarine (Spice market)
In the Souk El Attarine, I’m entranced by heaps of vividly colored spices, herbs and dried fruits. The fragrance of cumin, caraway, chili powder and other spices used heavily in Tunisian cuisine fills the air. Wandering past sacks overflowing with olives, dates and almonds, I pick up small bags of spices, oils and seasoning mixes as flavorful souvenirs of this market. It’s easy to spend hours taking in the sights and smells of the wares.
Visiting the Mosques
No trip through the medina would be complete without visiting its historic mosques, the center of spiritual life here.
Zitouna Mosque
Founded in the 8th century, the Zitouna Mosque is one of the oldest and most important mosques in Tunisia. Non-Muslims cannot enter but can view its columned prayer hall and elegant minaret from the square outside. Seeing this impressive structure, I gain insight into the long history of Islamic culture in Tunis.
Sidi Mahrez Mosque
Built in 1692, the Sidi Mahrez Mosque is another architectural marvel. The intricate tiles and ceilings inside are just as breathtaking as its tall minaret and dome visible from afar. It’s a reminder of the mastery of traditional craftsmanship.
Admiring the Madrasas
Medieval Islamic schools called madrasas flourished in Tunis. Two of the most prominent are:
Al-Zaytuna Madrasa
Founded in the 8th century alongside the Zitouna Mosque, Al-Zaytuna was one of the leading centers of Islamic education in the world, training scholars in theological studies. Walking through its quiet courtyard, I can imagine the many students who once studied and debated here.
Slimania Madrasa
Built in the 17th century, the Slimania Madrasa features a charming marble courtyard surrounded by stone columns. Now a library, it still emanates a scholarly atmosphere. The elegant architecture is a testament to the medina’s cultural sophistication.
Appreciating the Architectural Gems
In between the markets and mosques, the medina is full of architectural gems. Two palatial residences that dazzle with their designs are:
Dar Ben Abdallah
This 18th century mansion captures the richness of its original aristocratic inhabitants with its marble columns, stucco carvings, painted wood ceilings and mosaic tiles. Rooms branch out from the central courtyard in a style that perfectly balances aesthetics with Tunisia’s hot climate.
Dar El Jeld
Built in the 17th century, Dar El Jeld is renowned for its carved and painted wooden interior decorations. The level of detail in the woodwork throughout its salons and courtyards is an incredible display of craftsmanship. Gazing up at the colorful ceilings, it’s hard to fathom the skill involved.
Wandering the Residential Quarter
Away from the bustling markets, the medina’s residential quarter provides a glimpse into daily life. Wandering down the quieter lanes, I come across hidden corners with simple houses, lines of laundry hung between buildings and the sounds of neighborhood kids playing. Through partially open doorways, I catch glimpses of traditional inner courtyards, cozy living rooms and winding staircases. This less touristic area feels like the true heart of the old city.
Sampling Street Food Delicacies
For a taste of authentic Tunisian street fare, you can’t beat the medina. Outdoor stalls and hole-in-the-wall shops tempt with savory snacks and specialties:
Brik
These crispy parcels containing egg, tuna or anchovies are found all over Tunisia but seem to taste even better from a small food stall in the medina. The shatteringly thin, flaky pastry crackles satisfyingly with each bite.
Harissa
No Tunisian meal is complete without harissa, a fiery chili paste that adds a kick to everything. Mixed into a sandwich or soup or as a condiment, it provides the perfect spice.
Lebab
This street food features a thin crepe wrapped around a filling of eggs, tuna, chicken or other savory ingredients. Lebab is the ultimate on-the-go convenience food – easy to eat as you walk through the medina.
Shopping for Souvenirs
The medina offers plenty of chances to bring home mementos from my journey. Popular Tunisian handicrafts include:
Traditional clothing
Embroidered robes and dresses made using motifs symbolic to each region make wonderful keepsakes. Decorative chechias and scarves that shimmer with metallic thread are also prized souvenirs.
Pottery
Ceramics glazed in the signature sea green and blues found throughout Tunisia add lovely exotic accents back home. Decorative plates etched with Islamic geometric designs are favorite purchases.
Jewelry
Filigree gold jewelry embedded with gems is sold in many shops. The intricate wirework and sparkling designs capture the essence of Tunisian artistry. Necklaces and earrings make timeless gifts.
Experiencing a Traditional Hammam
No visit to a North Africa medina is complete without a trip to a traditional public bathhouse or hammam. After working up a sweat in the hot rooms, I luxuriate with a cleansing body scrub and massage. Emerging refreshed and renewed, this ritual bath is the perfect way to cap off my medina explorations.
Bidding Farewell to the Medina
As the sun sets over the medina on my final day, it’s time to bid this fascinating old city farewell. My immersive journey through its bustling lanes and hidden corners provided an authentic glimpse into Tunisian culture past and present. The echoes of traders in the souks, the call to prayer from lofty minarets and the intricate architectural details will stay etched in my memory as I return home. The Medina of Tunis remains frozen in time yet still living history.
Conclusion and Reflections on the Journey
The Medina of Tunis fully lives up to its reputation as an incredible window into Tunisia’s traditions. Wandering its atmospheric alleys provided insights I could have never gained elsewhere. From witnessing artisans carrying on age-old crafts to savoring street food specialties, I was able to connect to this country in memorable ways. My advice for future visitors is to allow enough time to lose yourself in the nooks of this labyrinth, putting aside maps and itineraries. Let each turn in the medina lead you to new hidden treasures. With its enduring magic and mystery, you never know what discoveries await around the next corner.
FAQs
What is the best way to explore the Medina of Tunis?
The medina is best explored on foot to fully immerse yourself and appreciate the details of this historic district. Wandering the old city lanes allows you to set your own pace rather than relying on a vehicle or tour group. Just be sure to pick up a map to avoid getting too lost in the maze of alleys!
What is the local dress etiquette when visiting the medina?
While Tunisia is relatively relaxed compared to other North African countries, it’s always wise to dress modestly out of respect in the old city. Covering knees and shoulders is recommended. For both men and women, wearing loose, lightweight clothing helps beat the heat.
What are some tips for shopping in the souks?
Bartering is expected in the medina markets, so come prepared to negotiate! Start with an offer of about half the quoted price and negotiate up from there based on the item’s perceived value. Paying cash rather than credit card may help get better deals too. And feel free to take time comparing merchandise and prices at different vendors to find the quality and value you want.
What is the best time of year to visit the Medina of Tunis?
The spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) shoulder seasons offer the most pleasant weather to explore the medina comfortably. Summers can be intensely hot while winter rainy spells bring lowered temperatures that require bundling up. During peak tourist times like summer and holidays, the medina is also far more crowded.
What precautions should I take when visiting the medina?
Use common sense precautions like avoiding walking alone or displaying expensive cameras and jewelry. Keep purses closed and valuables stored under clothing to deter pickpockets. getting lost is common in the convoluted alleys, so have a detailed map on hand or arrange for a licensed local guide. Remaining vigilant about your safety will allow you to relax and enjoy your medina journey.